After 9 hours of climbing runout, exposed, and pristine granite we stood atop the immaculate ridged peak of Charlotte Dome. We basked in the high alpine sun and gawked at the sweeping views of the ranges just adjacent. We had done it; we checked off one the “50 Classic Climbs of North America”. Break out the rack, strap on some psych, and go get after this climb. It’s a classic.
The South Face of Charlotte Dome is a 1,200 ft, 12 pitch, Grade IV climb within Sequioa/Kings Canyon National Park. The climbing is reminiscent of Tuolumne meadows – long, smooth faces with just enough features/protection to make it interesting. Ever since I began alpine climbing within 2020, this was a coveted target on my ticklist. After A LOT of research, preparation, and coercing Molly to join me on this journey – we set off to take down the route on a long weekend.
Day 1: What did I sign up for?
The dome has a colossal entrance fee for those who wish to partake in the fun. There is lore within the realm of Charlotte Dome that describes a pristine backcountry campground that sits beneath the dome. A fabled natural spring makes the campsite an ideal spot due to being the only natural water source near the dome. This would be a perfect launching spot for a long, strenuous day of climbing HOWEVER, the approach includes 12+ miles of hiking with HEAVY packs. Oh, did I forget to mention the ~4,400 ft of elevation gain along the way? I feel my legs quiver as I write about it right now…
As a good boyfriend, I kept Molly on a need to know basis – no need to freak someone out with the looming details of the day. I just kept repeating, “It’s going to be a big day babe. Hydrate, calories, and let’s have some fun!” Boy oh boy, the mirage lasted for a few hours and then the matter of the truth set in for both of us.
The approach is absolutely gorgeous. It may be a monstrous day but the scenery makes it bearable. The first ambition of the day was to waddle up and over Kearsarge Pass (11,709′). As Molly and I packed our heavy packs full of the necessities: layers, bivy gear, climbing rack/rope, and of course hot sauce – we set off for the pass.
Kearsarge Pass is a well traveled trail where hikers can enter the Rae Lakes Loop or head off into the wilderness of the John Muir Trail. As we crossed the pass we entered Kings Canyon National Park. We were met with a smoky ambiance due to an apparent fire that had started just the day before from a thunderstorm. After 4 miles of ascent, the smoke didn’t deter our moods. All was going smashingly well but turmoil was right around the corner.
Slow and steadily, we trudged another ~4 miles to reach Charlotte Lake. This secluded alpine lake would be our rest stop to soak the feet and replenish our water supplies. Disaster struck as we tried to filter water. The filtered water kept having an extreme off taste making us skeptical of the filter or the water source itself. The decision point arose – camp near the lake tonight and finish the last 4 miles of backcountry trails before the climb tomorrow morning or push for the hidden oasis with the hours of remaining daylight and enjoy a couple more hours of sleep before the alpine start. We chose the latter. Sometimes in life, you have to risk it for the biscuit! Little did we know that the remaining 4 – 5 miles would be a hellacious trudge through sharp manzanita in the beating sun.
We left the beaten path and set off on the climbers trail for our objective. The path was delicate with lush forests filled with cairns providing us guidance to our supposed camp. After leaving the security of the forests we ended up on a sloping hillside with mass groves of manzanita – Molly’s nightmare. We spent the next hour cursing the honed manzanita as it gouged our bare legs. On any big day, there are a few moments where doubt starts to creep in. That underlying doubt makes you ask yourself, “What did I sign up for? What are we doing here?” – at this moment on Day 1, Molly and I were both experiencing these thoughts. The ironic and blessed aspect of these thoughts is that neither one of us expressed them out loud. Spoken word has power. The mere fact that retreat was not discussed proved to be worthwhile.
Bloodied up, powered down, and a little hangry we finally found reprieve in the last stretch of forest underneath the dome. In the final half mile that felt like 3 miles, we stumbled upon the quartz lined campground. A beautiful spot that sits adjacent to a flourishing natural spring, a quick jaunt to the base of the dome, and a secluded “out there” feel. The sound of water was welcomed after hours of building anxiety that we might not find another viable water source after leaving Charlotte Lake. We would survive this trip but, the true challenge was looming over us while we cooked dinner that evening.
Natural Spring Bliss 
Camp Views
Day 2: Showtime
The alarm blared at 4:15 AM. It was a restless night filled with excitement, angst, and fear of the unknown. Molly’s and I fatigued bodies from the previous days work creaked and groaned as we rose into the chilly morning. We collected ourselves over oats, peanut butter, and the last bit of moonlight as it transitioned to the early morning light. The remote feel and taxing nature of the hike placed doubts within our mind of our capabilities. Did we bite off more than we could chew? Was this whole venture just reckless?
I wish to tell you that we racked up, hiked to the base, and fired the damned thing but, instead there was a quick pit stop. After brekky, we retreated to the warmth of our sleeping bags for the chill to pass and instill some confidence within one another. As we lay like two pigs in a blanket, we made a contingency plan. It was decided that at pitch 4, the last possible spot to bail, we would evaluate our pace, state of mind, and overall fatigue. We rose to greet the day a second time and headed off towards the South Face of Charlotte Dome.
The base of the dome is intimidating. Retreat options are limited, once you commit, you COMMIT! We tied in, spoke words of encouragement, and began the ascent. Pitches fell one by one.
The first three pitches or so were a vision quest filled with impeccable rock and exposure. The smooth face of Charlotte Dome was segmented with immaculate bands of granite dikes that made for memorable climbing. At the base of the fourth pitch we assessed – there wasn’t a viable retreat option (slung rock, tree, etc). Our hand was forced, we nodded to each other and continued up the sea of granite.
Pitches 4 and 5 came and went with fun chimney climbing. Finally Pitch 6, The Slot, we arrived at the crux. We quickly pulled through the slot, enjoying the baggy hand jams along the way. The pitch ends with a traverse on a ramp that is formed by a beautiful white/pink dike.
Traverse! 
The Joy is REAL!
Afterwards, we dismantled the awkward corner that more or less felt like a wrestling match with the feature. At the anchor of this pitch, winds picked up adding to the exposure and heart racing nature of the climb. After 8 pitches of climbing, tears were shed, choice words were said, and doubt had reared its ugly head. Snacks, words of reassurance, and hugs followed -we repeated this ritual at each belay for the rest of the climb.
We danced up the smooth face to Pitch 9 – an extremely runout slab that left more to be desired in terms of protection. The climbing was delicate and hair raising with the added factor of high winds. WHAT A TIME TO BE ALIVE! Pods of all sizes sporadically appeared for protection and peace of mind. I’ll have very fond memories of this climb but, this pitch definitely left an imprint due to the adventure aspect. It’s not the hardest climbing in the world but, goodness was it an experience.
We found a sloping ledge that provided a perfect belay right underneath the “Furrow Pitch”. The rock formation looks as if a giant cat raked its massive claws into the side of the dome, creating glorious hero climbing on three dimensional fins, jugs, and runnels. Pretty hard to wipe the shit-eating grin off your face after this masterpiece. Truly, how often to get to climb a pitch that is so featured?
Finally, we finessed our way to the ledges prior to Pitch 12. We sat in the shade, refueled on the best adventure snack – PB & J, and laughed as the realization came swooping in that we were going to do this damn thing. We racked up one last time and fired the summit pitch. Standing atop Charlotte Dome we savored the view of Kings Canyon, surrounding peaks, and even saw Kearsarge Pass – a familiar landmark we just had passed.
As the sun began to wane, we scrambled to the base of the dome. Exhausted and already recounting the adventure of the day, we made the final trudge into camp that night. We chowed down on bean pasta, hot sauce, and mini Almond Joys! We rolled into the bags exhausted but feeling the wave of satisfaction consume us as the shadow of Charlotte Dome loomed in the background. Sleep was a welcomed reprieve for our tired bodies and minds – we weren’t out of the woods yet and the adventure continued.
Day 3: Did My soul just Break?
We awoke with coffee, thiccccc oatmeal, and a slow morning around camp. We savored the view beneath the dome and laughed at the vibrant memories of the prior day. The plan was to have an easier day – hike to Charlotte Lake and set up camp for a nice night by the lake. In the backcountry, things change fast – weather forecasts looked grim and we moved with haste towards the pass.
Molly and I maneuvered through the hillside of manzanita, jaunted through the forest, and arrived at Charlotte Lake. Feeling relieved that the convoluted navigational portion of the trail was behind us, we rested at the lake. We were 4 miles in out of the 12+ mile trek and feeling despairingly tired. We fueled up and pressed on for the pass.
Hours of trudging the heavy packs with our broken down bodies and withering psyche left us finally atop Kearsarge Pass. It was all downhill from here but I knew each step would be just as hard as the last. The pack on my back felt as though it was slowly beating me into submission. The hike from the lake to the pass is a bit of a blur for me personally but, I do distinctly having to stop MANY times. At one point we stopped at an immaculate overlook, had a mini photoshoot, and took a much needed nap under a pine.
A notable encounter as we descended the pass was with a solo hiker who brimmed with joy. He was headed out for a two week trip in the backcountry with no real itinerary. We exchanged pleasantries and stories. As we were about to part ways he said a profound comment that Molly and I both thoroughly enjoyed, “Life’s too short to be rushing around.” Since this brief exchange Molly and I have repeated this line several times. I’m the one who by far needs to hear it most since I am SO objective oriented. It’s a good reminder to savor experiences. There is value in taking time to smell the roses and embrace the moments in between moments. Busy is just an excuse for poor prioritization. Don’t fall into the trap.
As my soul was slowly shattering due to the physical and mental stresses of the past few days, we decided to camp out one more night. Molly took the reins on the operation and led us into camp. Molly treated me like a prince by taking the load of setting up camp allowing for me to sink into the pain after a hard days effort. A mixture of physical pain and immense gratitude took hold as I was ecstatic to have a partner who picked up the slack when I was on empty. We ate, laughed, and ended the trip on a high note.
Confidence: A byproduct of Discomfort
I should mention that prior to this trip, I had never done a 12 pitch climb, let alone one in the middle of the backcountry. I remember laying in the bag the morning of the climb trying to reassure Molly that everything would be fine. Looking back on it, was I also reassuring myself? The knowledge and skills were there however, my confidence was shaky at best. Could we find the route efficiently? Would we wander off route in the sea of granite? Would we climb too slow and have nightfall upon us? A tried and true mantra for times like this is: Prepared for the worst, hoping for the best, and unsurprised by anything in between. As we ventured, my confidence grew with each pitch we put down. Discomfort is a place for growth and learning – Charlotte Dome provided that and so much more.
I smiled the entire time I wrote this post. Experiences like these will forever be cemented in my memories. The alpine is a place for struggle, a place to think, a place to enjoy the gifts of mother nature. Satisfaction comes in the struggle. I’m grateful for a partner who wanted to take on this beast of an adventure. The amount of times we said “Charlotte Dome” in 2020 is a bit absurd but, it was a provider of so many memories and lessons within an already challenging year. I frequently ask myself, “When am I headed back?” I don’t know the answer to this question just yet but, I know the memory will never leave me.
Much Love & What A Time To Be ALIVE,
Kyle
