Red Rock National Park! A dream destination for multi-pitch climbing on sunset red sandstone. My good friend, Johnnyson, and I were able to get properly acquainted with this coveted spot during a holiday weekend. As MLK weekend approached, the objectives were to have a one true MEGA day, cragging, and a complete another classic multipitch climb before driving back to LAX for an redeye flight. The trip started rocky with delayed flights and a 7 HOUR drive from LA to Las Vegas, normally 4 hour drive, due to holiday weekend traffic however, psyche was high and led right into the first objective…. THE MEGA DAY!
Day 1 – MEGA DAY (Saddle UP & ARMATRON)
The first day’s objectives were a link up of Saddle Up (5.9, 5 pitches, 600 ft) and the super classic Armatron (5.9, 6 pitches, 680 ft). Who doesn’t love a cruiser day of 5.9 with over 1,200 vertical feet climbed? These climbs were Johnny’s first experience dealing with the exposure and Type II fun associated with multi-pitch climbing…. and boy oh boy was it an experience.
The day starts with two goofs sitting 3rd in line at 5:55 am waiting for the Red Rock Scenic Loop entrance to open. The anticipation and psyche was high… could we complete the day by the gate closure time of 7 pm? How would the approach go? Route Finding? When would we bonk? How many parties would be ahead of us? Can this psyche last me potentially a 12 – 13 hour day? Little did we know, this psyche would propel us all throughout the day like nitrous oxide within a V8 combustion engine.
We arrived to the Juniper Canyon pullout, snapped a few photos, took note of the start time and set off for one hell of a day. The morning sun greeting us as we hiked in staring at the layered sandstone.
We moved with purpose through the intial mile and a half as we passed multiple parties all heading to the classic moderate in Juniper Canyon, Armatron. Instead of taking the 2+ hour approach through the canyon directly towards Armatron, we decided to link Brownstone Wall with the route Saddle Up on the Jackrabbit Buttress. As we approached the chimney pitch of Saddle Up we had passed the first test, the approach.
We racked up, said farewell to our packs, and ventured into the chimney of Saddle Up. The first pitch went down with little issue besides the heinous rope drag and difficulty finding gear for a proper anchor. Once established, I belayed Johnny to the “half a buttcheek” ledge I had decided to build an anchor at. A few choice words were shared at the anchor due to my choice….
Saddle Up is a route that doesn’t see a ton of traffic however the 2nd and 3rd pitch include a money hand crack that stretches for 180+ feet. The obvious conclusion is to link these pitches for a memorable experience as you venture up a continuous crack with zebra striped sandstone. As we rose higher and higher off the canyon floor there was a sense of euphoria just realizing that you are the CREATOR of YOUR OWN ADVENTURES. At the second belay you could turn 180 degrees and see the wide cracks of Crimson Chrysalis staring at you right in your face. Those ambitions would have to wait for another day….
The last few pitches of Saddle Up were devoured due to the low angle nature. On the sharp end, questing was done to find gear, belays, and the route itself… it made for one hell of a time. As our feet burned and the sun beat down, we had accomplished our second test, Saddle Up. We drudged over to the base of the Brownstone Wall, badly needing calories and a pick me up. Shout out to completely smashed Chipotle burritos from the night before…. don’t sleep on the sofritas y’all.
After fueling up and giving our feet a tiny reprieve from the constant, constricting pressure of climbing shoes; we pressed upward and onward! The classic Armatron starts with a cruiser sport pitch with well-spaced bolts for protection. Chicken heads and brown plates provide ample confidence throughout the pitch for leaders to keep the heart rate low. The crux 2nd pitch lay ahead with a technical crux using a finger crack that pinches down before reaching hero jugs at the next anchor. Finally, the dynamic duo found themselves at anchor #2… the MONEY pitch lay ahead….. 150+ feet of perfectly varnished black plates going at a cruiser grade of 5.6. The honor was mine to take the lead and yard on 5.6 jugs while placing perfectly wedged nuts within the cracks between the perfectly cut out black plates. THIS PITCH ABSOLUTELY EATS STOPPERS! As I climbed higher and higher on the route, each stopper placement gave more and more satisfaction just looking at the perfect surface contact between the rock and stopper.
A personal goal of mine was to lead the whole pitch just using stoppers…. trying to put myself in the shoes of earlier pioneers in the sport who just used passive protection to ascend the faces of walls all throughout the country. I am not counting the 0.4 X4 I placed before the runout to the chains, but the entire pitch was led with passive pro! Before I knew it, I was at the anchor of the 3rd pitch… the joy ride was over but it was one hell of a ride.
After such a classic pitch, it wasn’t all sunshine and butterflys at the 3rd anchor of Armatron. The sunlight was waning and the party ahead of us was taking advantage of the next ledge ahead of us… both climbers took off their shoes, staring up at the next 5.9 pitch and scouting out who would lead the pitch. After a little friendly reminder that they weren’t the only party on the wall and that daylight was limited, we set off to finish the last three pitches of Armatron. As we cruised through the remaining pitches and topped out on Juniper Peak the sun was just setting on the range to the west of us… WHAT A TIME TO BE ALIVE.
After basking in the endorphins that are synonymous with a summit, it was time for the descent. Energy and light were waning like the last wisps of a campfire on a cold night. We ventured through multiple gulleys, scrambled up scree, and bushwhacked to make it to our packs. As the sun and ourselves descended from Juniper Peak, the light created an insane pink-ish hue on the sandstone. It was truly surreal.
It was now pitch dark and for two newbs to the area the navigation back to our cars would be a challenge. Personally, this is when I hit my wall. Exhaustion and fatigue set in like a wave crashing against a shoreline. Johnny grabbed the reins and took us to the promised land. In the darkness of fear, he was a light of hope and that’s all you could really ask out of a partner… or was that just his headlamp?
All in all we stumbled back to the car, running the last 10 feet for a car to car time of 12 HOURS & 10 MINUTES! It was one hell of a day, a MEGA DAY in my books. WHAT A TIME TO BE ALIVE! The night was ended with celebratory Thai and a beer. This is one for the books… a repeat soon enough with a little harder climbing? 😉 Only time will tell.
Day 2 – Cottonwood Station & Cragging
After a proper Big Day, we were both feeling a little fatigued. Mentally, I felt as if the day prior had been a dream however, my body was a constant reminder that it was definitely the real deal. Day 2 plans included a slow morning at a gem, cragging, and prepping for one last multi-pitch venture.
As a climber who started climbing at the Red River Gorge, I am rooted in the hospitality and community found at places like Miguel’s Pizza and Rockhouse. These are two staples of the area and are iconic on a national/global level. I am a firm believer that every climbing destination should have their own version of a Miguel’s, a watering hole for outdoor enthusiasts. For Red Rock, that place in my opinion is Cottonwood Station.
Nestled in Blue Diamond, Nevada is an outpost for cyclists, mountain bikers, and climbers alike. Endless coffee, killer breakfast burritos, EDM, and an outside patio was just the remedy we needed after a day of effort. The place is whimsical and should be noted whenever you travel to Red Rock. It’s so good that we went TWICE in one day – Breakfast and Dinner after a day of cragging.
After our slow morning filled with reflection, coffee, and grub we headed to Kraft Mountain to sample a little Red Rock sport climbing. We ventured to the small crag called Sunny & Steep! The wall is south facing and on a winter day it was swarming with people. We warmed up and then got to work. I had just been wrapping up my first ever training program, Proven 5.12 by Power Company Climbing, and I wanted to test my new fitness against some of the classics at the crag.
I walked up to the crag namesake Sunny & Steep (5.11d), tied in, and let the feeling of being 100% totally present in the moment take over. I surprised myself with an onsight of the climb, my first ever of the grade. Another notable climb in the area was Mr. Choad’s Wild Ride (5.11b). A long and extremely sustained face that requires finesse and a headgame to keep it together otherwise you’ll be taking a wild ride…. I feel victim to the sustained crimps at the top and took the whipper. I would highly recommend both routes if you’re in the area. Overall the day was quite pleasant with multiple meals shared at Cottonwood Station and proof in the pudding that training does work.
Day 3 – Triassic Sands
I am an optimizer, so of course we had to squeeze one more classic in before we left to get Johnny on the red eye flight. The candidate for Day 3 was Triassic Sands (5.10) in the lovely Black Velvet Canyon. Disclaimer: This was my FAVORITE climb of the entire weekend, we are talking MEGA FRIGGIN’ CLASSIC. When shooting for big objectives, this typically means early mornings. As with early mornings, come beautiful desert sunrises.
This climb can really attract the masses however, the early bird gets the worm or the entire wall to themselves. The climb is broken into 6 pitches, climbing ~780 feet, with the first four pitches being the meat of the climb. This climb is renowned for the splitter hands on Pitch 2 and the cruxy corner at Pitch 4 – both lived up to the hype.
Challenging cruxes are the entrance fees to incredible hand cracks that just keep on giving. A low crux on Pitch 2 off a finger lock gives way to enduro climbing on a handcrack that has you questioning whether or not this is reality. Pitch 3 gives way to a two crack face – pick your poison. Spoiler alert, they are both awesome. Finally, Pitch 4 has the famous death surfboard and a corner that provides intuitive climbing and bomber jams.
Parties typically rap off Pitch 4 however, we are summit baggers and we decided to quest onwards. This climb reminded me why I love multi-pitch trad climbing so much. It’s that special feeling of questing upwards on a sea of sandstone. The logistics of managing belays, gear, and efficiency. For an adventurous engineer, it’s an absolute dream. When was my last placement? Do I have enough gear to finish the pitch? Where should I build the anchor? How creative do I have to be with the materials I have left to create the anchor? It’s all a game…. and I am addicted.
I would highly recommend this climb to family and friends. If you do climb it, let me know about your experience – I am curious if it filled you with the same joy, sense of adventure, and psych to be alive that it did for me. It was one hell of a weekend and I wouldn’t change a thing about it. Thanks for sharing the adventures with me mate and here’s to many more.
What A Time To Be Alive & Much Love,
Kyle Goodnow
